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Christmas in Vienna
At
about Thanksgiving 2004 I was looking about for a place to go for Christmas.
I didn't have much time to think about it, but I called a trusted travel agent
who had planned some of the other trips you see on this website. My first
choice was
London, but she suggested
Vienna
for a number of
reasons. After thinking about it for a short time, I decided her
recommendation made good sense, so we booked it. A couple of weeks later I
offered to take daughter Kim with me on the trip. She had to do a lot of
finagling to get the time off from work, but she managed it and we got her a
reservation on a separate flight from
Portland Oregon
and a room of her
own at the hotel. So on December 22 we both flew out, and met at the Hotel
Wandl in Vienna. The rest of this page is about that
week of Christmas, 2004.
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| Here's a view of
the entry to the Hotel Wandl, all decked out for Christmas. Our
rooms were on the second floor (third, if you count them the American
way). |
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| In Vienna there
is a circular boulevard named Ringstrasse, or Ring Street, that extends in
an arc about two miles across, and bordering the Danube River. Most
of the important state buildings and attractions are within or alongside this Ring,
including the City Hall, the State Opera House, as well as many churches,
museums and galleries. The city also has several
"quarters", each characterized by the dominant attraction in
that district. The word "quarter" is used more to describe
a "district" rather than the mathematical one-fourth, as I have
counted six such districts (I think). Our hotel is in the quarter
known as Stephansdom, for the cathedral by that name, or in English, St.
Stephen's Cathedral. Cutting across the entire district is a broad
mall full of shops and barred to vehicles known as Kärntnerstrasse.
Here during the Christmas week there were many artisans and vendors of
many kinds. The two mimes shown here are examples. |
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Here,
in a small park just off the Ringstrasse, is a magnificent statue of
Mozart. It appears that the ground in the treble clef is planted
with annual flowers during the summer months, but because it was
Christmas Week we missed them.
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One of Kim's
constant companions in her travels is Panda. Here is Panda in front
of Schönbrunn Castle, with the Christmas tree behind |
| Here's
Kim in front of the Schönbrunn Christmas tree. This photo was
taken on our way in to the Palace December 26. By the time we
finished the tour about three hours later the tree was gone. Ach du
Lieber, such Teutonic efficiency! |
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| This is the
Kärntnerstrasse all decked out for Christmas. Note the Cartier
store on the corner. |
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| One of
Vienna's most famous attractions is the coffee house, which have been an
institution since the seventeenth century. Their pastries are
deservedly famous and some, such as the Sachertorte are known around the
world. Sachertorte was invented in the Hotel Sacher, just a few
blocks from the Cafe Mozart where these scenes were shot. Cafe
Mozart is one of the oldest of Vienna's coffee houses. |
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We certainly
enjoyed all of the dinners while there, this one especially. The
sound of Viennese music echoes everywhere, and this restaurant was filled
with it the entire evening.
(The white thing in
front of me that looks like a hole in the image is actually a white linen
napkin, still rolled up and tucked into a glass.)
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| Midnight
Mass at Stephansdom. This cathedral is so huge it was very difficult
to photograph, but I was able to catch some of the processional. On the
right is the kresch, displayed near the entrance to the Cathedral. |
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| This is the
Neue Burg (literally, "new city") and (R) statue of Prinz Eugen,
who defeated the Turkish occupation of Vienna in 1683. This huge
complex was the seat of Habsburg power until the exile of the Habsburgs
and the end of the Empire in 1918. In 1938 Hitler stood on the steps
in the center of the building and pronounced the annexation of Austria to
Germany (the "Anschluss"). Today the building houses the State Library. |
Above is the
statue of Prinz Eugen, who was one of Vienna's greatest heroes for driving
the Turks out of Austria in 1683. His military victory set the stage
for the flourishing of Viennese culture in the eighteenth and nineteenth
centuries. The statue can be seen in the photo at left, across from
the entrance to the Library near the center of the Plaza.
There was a heavy
cruiser in WWII named for him that was escorting the battleship
Bismarck at the time the latter ship was sunk by the British Royal Navy in
May 1941. Prinz Eugen herself survived the war and surrendered to
the Allies in Copenhagen in May 1945. She was taken to Bikini Atoll
in 1946 to be used as a target ship, survived two atomic bombings, and was
taken to Kwajalein Atoll where she capsized and sank in deep water.
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